The feminised nature of bottomless brunch – prosecco, rather than lager, is the drink of choice here – has meant that the concept has been a little maligned for some time.

On weekends, starting at 11:30 a.m., there is porridge. It comes with two or four toppings, which are more like side dishes to be spooned or forked, bite by bite, into a bowl of rice that’s been ...